The Xi’an Muslim quarter is located in the city center behind the Drum Tower, and is one of the oldest parts of the city. The first Muslims came to China around 650 A.D. when the uncle of Prophet Muhammad, Sa`ad ibn Abi Waqqas, was sent as an official envoy to teach Emperor Gaozong about Islam. The religion spread throughout China’s north-west by merchants along the Silk Road and travelers from Persia and Afghanistan, when some married Chinese women and settled. Today the area retains a colorful Central Asian flavor, as Muslims in traditional garb bustle down narrow spice-scented streets. Vendors peddle lamb dumplings, and persimmon cakes from hole-in-the-wall cafes. Today, there are about 60,000 Muslims, mainly of the Hui minority, living here. Out of China’s 55 officially recognized minority groups, ten are considered Muslim with a combined population of about 20 million. The highest numbers of Muslims appear in the provinces of Xinjiang, Gansu, and Ningxia. The Muslims of Western China share many characteristics with Central Asia, whereas mosques situated further inland like that of Xi’an had to adapt to Chinese architectural traditions associated with Buddhism and Taoism.
The Grand Mosque
The mosque is said to have been founded in 742 A.D. during the Tang dynasty (618-907 A.D.), making it one of China’s oldest. The footprint of today’s incarnation dates back to 1392 under the instruction of Admiral Cheng Ho, when Muslims were enjoying an elevated status due to their help in defeating the Mongols. Numerous reconstructions followed and it is likely that much of what remains hails from the Qing period (1644 – 1911 A.D.)
Unlike its Middle Eastern equivalents the design of the mosque pays homage to local Buddhist and Taoist traditions. Five courtyards are aligned on a central axis, though unlike other temples they face west towards Mecca. Notable features include a large wooden gateway dating from the reign of Emperor Kangxi (1662-1723 A.D.) and two large steles containing important calligraphy from the Song (960-1279 A.D.) and Ming (1368-1644 A.D.) periods. An octagonal tower stands in the third courtyard. Chinese-style blue glazed tiles and dragon heads adorn its exterior, while its ceiling is carved and painted with lotus flowers. Named the Pavilion of Introspection it functions as the minaret and is still used today for the call to prayer. An official reception hall to the south houses a hand written copy of the Koran dating from the Ming dynasty. The “one god or ‘phoenix’ pavilion,” further to the west combines a traditional Chinese archway with a pavilion. Its Chinese roof-line conceals an Islamic-style wooden cupola and dates from the Qing period (1644-1911). The main prayer hall is divided into three sections: a porch, great hall, and projecting qibla bay. The hall is decorated with bas relief and Quranic inscription and can hold 1,000 people. Elderly Hui men still come here five times a day to pray, but non-Muslims cannot enter. The Mosque became a UNESCO Islamic Heritage site in 1985.