In a quiet suburb of Chengdu stands the oldest and largest Taoist temple in South West China. Although the Qingyang Gong was originally built in the Zhou dynasty (1040 BC – 221 BC), it was significantly expanded after the Taoists gave the Tang emperor Xizhong refuge here during the Huangchao Rebellion (874 – 884 A.D.). The current incarnation dates back to 1667, when it was rebuilt during the reign of the Kangxi emperor.
On passing through the main entrance the eye is almost immediately drawn to the beautiful Eight Trigram Pavilion, which stands 20 metres high, supported by 16 stone pillars. The eight sided structure has square foundations and a coloured glazed dome on top, reflecting the ancient Chinese beliefs that the heaven was round and the earth square. The dome is engraved with 81 dragons and the pavilion houses a statue of Laozi, founder of Taoism, who allegedly once visited. Not a single bolt or peg was used in its construction.
Another impressive structure is the Hall of Three Purities, which contains massive statues of the supreme Taoist lords. The interior of this building is exquisitely decorated with brightly coloured carvings of flowers and lions. The temple gets its name from two bronze goats which stand either side of the hall’s entrance. The more prominent of these creatures was transported from a Beijing curio market to Chengdu in 1723, and is said to combine features of the animals from the Chinese zodiac. Legend has it that the two goats were incarnates of two boy servants of the emperor, and could cure all diseases. A slight touch on a certain part of the goat’s body is said to release pain and eliminate disease.
One of the most important Taoist cultural relics held in the temple is a wooden engraving of Dao Zang Ji from the Qing dynasty (1644-1911). It is deemed to be the most comprehensive and best preserved Taoist scripture in existence.
To the rear of the monastery stands the Two Immortals monastery named after the Taoist immortals Lu Dongbin and Han Xiangzi, who are said to have once descended here. It remains the only monastery in southwest China authorised to certify Daoist training, initiations and the passing of lineage.
The tea house at the side of the temple is a perfect place to soak up its otherworldly atmosphere.