Once upon a time Gyantse was the third-largest town in Tibet. Situated in the Nyang Chu valley it emerged as an important stop over for traders and pilgrims moving across the Himalayan Plateau between Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. However, the closure of the border at Dromo (Yadong) has ensured that Gyantse escaped the ravishes of development experienced by other Chinese towns such as Bāyī and Tsetang. In fact, it is the only remaining settlement of any size in Tibet that has managed to retain its vernacular architecture of sturdy two and three storey farmhouses.
The spectacular Gyantse Dzong was built in 1390 to guard the southern approaches to the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley and Lhasa. It is perched high on a grey rock and remains one of the most well preserved fortresses in Tibet. Originally it would have been accompanied by a 3km long wall surrounding the town.
In 1903 a British expedition led by Colonel Francis Younghusband set off from Sikkim to counter Russia’s perceived ambitions in the East. By December 3rd over 3000 troops including Gurkhas, Pathans, and an army of Sherpas were lined up to enter Tibetan territory. They entered following a feigned act of “Tibetan hostility”, and began their march to Lhasa. Over the following months the poorly equipped Tibetans, put up a tough resistance, losing ground then regaining it on several occasions. However, on the 5th July 1904, the British launched the final of several assaults on the fortress at Gyantse. They eventually broke through and secured the road to Lhasa. The outcome lead to a British military garrison, consisting mainly of Indian soldiers being stationed at Gyantse for the first half of the 20th century. When the 13th Dalai Lama reappeared from exile the garrison served as a military school to help train Tibetan officers.
Despite the spectacular location of the Gyantse Dzong and its rich history, the town boasts a far greater architectural wonder. The magnificent tiered Gyantse Kumbum stupa of the Palcho Monastery is the largest chörten (Buddhist shrine) left in Tibet. It was commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427 and was an important centre of the Sakya school of Tibetan Buddhism. The structure is made up of six floors which contain 77 chapels. It is adorned with over 10,000 murals in a Nepali style which have managed to survive almost entirely intact. They are the last of their kind to be found in Tibet.
Gyantse is a must see for any traveller planning an extended visit to Tibet. Apart from the impressive attractions, there are plenty of lesser visited monasteries close by that are well worth dipping into and a simple walk through the backstreets provides a rare glimpse of Tibetan pastoral life, little changed for centuries.